Discovering the Conca Valley in Romagna with 3 wonderful medieval villages

by 18, Jun, 2021Emilia-Romagna

Here’s a perfect trip for the mid-season, an itinerary for the medieval villages of the Conca Valley in Romagna.

Spring is undoubtedly the best time of the year for first excursions, road trips, and countryside outings. The mild sun and still moderate temperatures encourage walks to explore and immerse oneself in nature and history.

Today, I’ll take you to explore a borderland between the hills of Romagna, in the south of the region: the Conca Valley. We will wander through the cobbled streets and alleys of three medieval villages, following a special itinerary marked by places nestled in the lush nature of the Romagna hills, evoking the sense of their past, filled with epic clashes.

In this area, each village and fortress narrates the factional past of the two noble families of the Malatestas from Rimini and the Montefeltros from Urbino, whose rivalry involved all the most powerful families of the peninsula, from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance.

We will visit three medieval villages that are true gems. I chose them not only for their beauty but also for their historical significance and proximity to one another, making them perfect for a day trip. These villages are Montegridolfo, Mondaino, and Montefiore Conca.

Montegridolfo

The medieval village of Montegridolfo is the first stop on our tour, blending the charm of history with a love for the picturesque inland and notable food and wine experiences. I’ve written more about it here.
The town has just over 1,000 inhabitants and will impress you from the start. To enter, you must climb a street that, through an imposing gate, transports you to a place where time seems to have stopped. But not only time; even sound is hushed here. The only noise you’ll hear is a gentle melody coming from the nearby “Il Ritrovo del Vecchio Forno,” adding to the perfect atmosphere for visitors.

 

The castle still houses Palazzo Viviani, which has undergone numerous transformations and additions by various owners over the centuries. Today, Palazzo Viviani hosts a romantic relais.

After wandering through the charming medieval streets and admiring the breathtaking views from the town walls, you can also visit other places of interest: the Church of San Rocco and the Museum of the Gothic Line, which contains various materials (weapons, memorabilia, propaganda prints) that testify to the passage of the warfront in 1944.

Mondaino

Our journey continues to a place considered a true gem: the small Mondaino, a Malatesta stronghold where the memory of a past filled with clashes, duels, and art remains intact, visible in its many points of interest.

The village’s name harkens back to its origins, when a Roman temple dedicated to Diana, the goddess of hunting, stood here. The ancient settlement was called “Vicus Dianensis,” after the temple.

Don’t miss the Malatesta Fortress, a key part of the Malatesta defense line and essential for maintaining control over nearby castles.
From the terrace atop the fortress, you’ll enjoy a splendid view. It’s fascinating to explore its secret passages, although only part of them are open to visitors.

Also worth mentioning is Piazza Maggiore, affectionately called “Piazza padella” by locals. This elliptical square from the 1800s is adorned with a neoclassical portico and is the beating heart of the village. It’s here that in August, the “Palio del Daino” takes place, a competition between districts that commemorates a past that draws tourists from all over Italy.

Read more in my article dedicated to Mondaino’s visit.

 

 

Mondaino also boasts other landmarks that highlight its deep connection to the region’s history, such as the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, an 18th-century place of worship originally hosting the ancient temple dedicated to Diana, which houses valuable works from the 15th and 16th centuries.

 

Montefiore Conca

What will catch your eye from several kilometers away is the fortress of Montefiore Conca, majestic atop the hill.
The fortress is massive and imposing, with squared walls.

Despite its menacing appearance, it hides a romantic legend, like any respectable castle: the souls of Costanza Malatesta and Ormanno are said to wander in love through the corridors of this magnificent stronghold. Montefiore Conca is one of the most intriguing destinations in the Rimini hinterland.
Its name comes from the Latin “Mons Florum,” meaning “Mountain of Flowers,” for its stunning geographical location.

Here, too, we encounter the typical scene of romantic medieval villages frozen in time, with narrow streets, alleyways, walls, and the castle that retains all the charm of the Middle Ages.

The village reached its peak of power and splendor under the Malatesta dynasty, who made the castle their summer residence, hosting popes and emperors.

For more details about Montefiore Conca, including visiting hours and entrance fees to the fortress, check out my article dedicated to this stunning village.

An emotional setting to fully immerse yourself in, just as poet Ezra Pound did when writing these lines about this place:

 

I have tried to write Paradise

Do not move
Let the wind speak that is paradise.
Let the Gods forgive what I have made
Let those I love try to forgive what I have made.

Ezra Pound

Finally, don’t miss the Church of San Paolo Apostolo, with its curious feature: the main entrance, located on a side directly leading into the nave. It’s intimate and cozy, with beautiful stained-glass windows.

Inside, you’ll find a 14th-century wooden crucifix and frescoes from the 15th and 16th centuries, including the altarpiece of the Madonna della Misericordia.

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