Colloredo di Monte Albano: What to See in the Village of Friuli
Colloredo di Monte Albano, a small municipality close to other famous towns like Venzone and San Daniele, is the starting point for discovering Carnia, an area that is still little known but rich in beauty. The village, with its castle and clock tower, is surrounded by mountains that complete this enchanting panorama.
Welcome to Friuli Venezia-Giulia, a frontier land very close to Austria and even closer to Slovenia, which has all the characteristics to please: incredible landscapes, fascinating castles and incomparable gastronomic products known in Italy and throughout the world; in addition to its tragic history, long forgotten, now indelibly etched in the memory of our country.
On the foothills of the Pre-Alps, on the banks of the Tagliamento river, lies Colloredo di Monte Albano, a municipality of around 2,500 inhabitants in the province of Udine that you have probably never heard of… Very close to other much better-known destinations, like Venzone and San Daniele, Colloredo in Friuli is my outpost for the discovery of this area, Carnia, a land that was totally unknown to me until now but which is full of beauties to visit and love.
If you come from Udine, you will see, from the straight road that runs towards the town centre in continuous ups and downs, its houses and its wonderful castle with its iconic clock tower and, in the background, the mountains (Alps and Pre-Alps) that complete the picture.
COSA TROVERAI IN QUESTO POST:
Historical notes
Colloredo di Monte Albano arose following the construction of the castle by the noble Colloredo-Mels family invested with various possessions by the House of Tyrol from 1000 AD.
Colloredo in Friuli appears like a fief of the Viscounts of Mels and experienced days of triumph and splendour thanks to this family, which occupied important posts through the centuries in various courts including those of Vienna and Florence. They continued to hold the fief throughout the Venetian period. With the fall of the Republic came the French, who during their rule in Italy established the Municipality of Class III in the department of Passariano, district of Udine and canton of Tricesimo.
Under the subsequent Austrian government, during the Kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia, Colloredo was at first fractioned like a fraction of Mels, promoted as the capital, included in the district of San Daniele.
Only in 1822 did it become an autonomous municipality again, uniting the hamlets of Aveacco, Caporiacco, Codugnella, Laibacco, Lauzzana, Pradiis and Mels. In 1866, with the whole of western Friuli, it became part of the Kingdom of Italy.
The 1976 earthquake
Among the most tragic historical events in Colloredo di Monte Albano, it is impossible not to mention the Friuli earthquake of 1976, nicknamed Orcolat (‘ugly ogre’ in Friulian) by the locals, which is remembered like one of the five worst earthquakes of the 20th century in Italy. An earthquake with a magnitude of 6.5 on the Richter scale that struck Friuli, and the surrounding areas, at 9 p.m. on 6 May 1976, with further aftershocks following on 11 and 15 September.
The earthquake struck the area north of Udine in an area of 5500 square kilometres, affecting 600 thousand inhabitants and causing 990 deaths and 100 thousand displaced persons. There were 45 municipalities razed to the ground, including: Gemona, Venzone, Forgaria nel Friuli, Buia, Pinzano al Tagliamento, Monteaperta (hamlet of Taipana) and Osoppo.
Colloredo Castle
The Colloredo Castle is partially restored and sits on a hill.
Built in 1302 by the Viscount of Mels, it was completed in 1310 and was once considered the most beautiful castle in Friuli. The castle’s grandeur was symbolized by its height and thickness, with a drawbridge and a trapezoidal entrance tower offering a panoramic view. The Colloredo family, once a powerful noble house, opposed other local families, such as the Counts of Gorizia.
In 1420, the castle fell into Venetian hands and was later damaged in the 1511 “Fat Thursday” sack and a destructive earthquake. After the 1976 earthquake, its ruins became a symbol of the tragedy.
The Colloredo Castle was restored during the Renaissance, with aesthetic improvements since it was no longer used for military purposes. Giovanni da Udine, a student of Raphael, decorated the famous studiolo with stuccoes and paintings of anthropomorphic creatures.
The castle hosted notable literary figures such as Ermes di Colloredo, a poet and pioneer of the Friulian language, and Ippolito Nievo, who wrote “The Confessions of an Italian” here, earning the castle its nickname as “the castle of writers and storytellers.” Almost completely destroyed by the 1976 earthquake, it became a symbol of the devastation to Friuli’s artistic heritage.
The castle once had a central core, three towers, and two wings, but only the western part was restored, with the eastern section, including the clock tower, still in ruins. Visitors can explore the clock tower area and the western wing, home to the Friulian Hills Community.
The Castle of Caporiacco
In the village of Caporiacco, a few kilometers from Colloredo in Friuli, lie the ancient ruins of the castle of the same name. This manor, with very ancient origins, was once owned by the lords who later became the Counts of Caporiacco, one of the oldest and most illustrious families of Friuli.
Restoration work was completed in 2013, bringing the castle back to life. Currently, it is not open to the public, but it is very beautiful from the outside, especially in the evening thanks to its impressive lighting.
Church of Saints Andrea and Mattia
The parish church of Saints Andrea and Mattia dates back to the 14th century and was built by the Colloredo-Mels family just outside the castle’s moat. Later, as the village developed, it was expanded to meet the growing religious needs, and in the mid-1700s, the bell tower was constructed.
After the 1976 earthquake, consolidation work was necessary and was completed in 1992.
Mels Tower
Mels Tower, also known as Torate, is the last remaining part of the Mels Castle, built in the first half of the 11th century. After various historical events and changes in ownership, it faced a tragic fate: in 1262, the castle was burned down, and in 1352, Patriarch Nicolò of Luxembourg ordered its demolition. It was also damaged by the 1976 earthquake but was restored in the following years. What remains of the Torate, hidden among the houses, still stands majestically.
It is possible to enter and climb to the top. From there, the view of the surrounding villages is truly stunning!
Where to Eat in Colloredo
Highly recommended is the pizzeria-restaurant Alle Antiche Scuderie, located just below the castle, offering light pizzas and fantastic cuisine deeply rooted in the local territory! Additionally, the area is full of very charming spots where you can enjoy good wine at a low price and sample local delicacies (cold cuts, cheeses) called Frasche!
Near Colloredo di Monte Albano
You can’t miss the fantastic village of Fagagna, known as the city of storks, where the annual “donkey race” takes place every year, or the delightful village of Venzone, which was devastated by the 1976 earthquake but completely rebuilt and is now considered one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Also worth a visit is the village Spilimbergo, the city of mosaics, and San Daniele del Friuli, known for its delicious prosciutto, one of the tastiest in Italy!
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See you there!
Nelle vicinanze di Fagagna
Non puoi perderti il fantastico Borgo di Venzone, completamente ricostruito dopo il terremoto del 1976 con le sue stesse pietre cadute, Colloredo di Monte Albano ed il suo magnifico Castello e San Daniele del Friuli, la città del prosciutto tra i più gustosi d’Italia!
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