Comacchio Valley and the delightful city on the water of Emilia-Romagna

by letygoeson31, Jan, 2022Emilia-Romagna

My visit was truly enchanting, filled with nature, city exploration, and gastronomy. However, I won’t give you a tourist guide-style description. Instead, I’d like to convey the charm of the Comacchio Valley and Comacchio, the city on the water in Emilia-Romagna.

This unique urban center boasts a rich gastronomic tradition with a variety of typical products, the most famous of which is eel, cooked and served in numerous delicious recipes worth trying.

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The Comacchio Valley

The landscape is unique—a lush green area dense with vegetation and open spaces hosting a wide range of birds, animals, and fish. The Comacchio Valley offers breathtaking landscapes that border on the dreamlike, along with a variety of trails for nature walks.

As we took the highway towards Ferrara, we encountered a thick bank of fog, made bright white by the sunlight just above it, creating an eerie travel experience. I was about to lose hope as the fog engulfed us until our exit. During winter, fog is quite common in the eastern part of Emilia-Romagna.

Fortunately, after a few kilometers, the mist cleared, and we were welcomed by a mild yet bright winter sun—perfect for a walk and some birdwatching.

Our first stop was the Observation Tower of the Zavelea Oasis, which stands majestically in a surreal setting on the lagoon.
This is the perfect place to observe birdlife, with its 320 species. Just beneath the tower, we ventured onto one of the nature trails, and I was captivated by the untouched landscape and the variety of birds visible in the open areas and the sky, such as the Great Crested Grebe, Shelduck, Black-winged Stilt, Little Egret, various species of herons, and the magnificent pink flamingos—though, unfortunately, I didn’t get to see them this time.

Trabocchi and Bilancioni of Stazione Foce

In the Comacchio Valley, you’ll find these stilted fishing structures that are widespread in various coastal areas: the trabocchi and bilancioni.

At “Stazione Foce,” near the information center by the salt pans’ parking area, you can rent bicycles to follow a stunning elevated path that runs south, skirting the entire valley.

This breathtaking itinerary takes you through a fascinating landscape filled with fishing huts, beaches, and vast peaceful spaces, passing through the Salina, a refuge for vibrant colonies of aquatic birds.

Along the route, you’ll spot distinctive “Casoni di Valle,” which were historically used as homes or surveillance points to monitor illegal fishing. The most beautiful, well-preserved, and scenic of them all is the Casone di Donnabona, which extends into the lagoon on a narrow strip of land.

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Comacchio, the little city on the water

After our trip to the Comacchio Valley, we couldn’t miss a stroll through the city and a delightful lunch.

It might seem exaggerated to compare Comacchio to Venice, but the resemblance is striking, evoking the alleyways of the Serenissima.

In reality, Comacchio is just as ancient and, like the more famous lagoon city, is characterized by numerous waterways that crisscross it—a dense maze of canals connected by small bridges, adorned by pastel-colored row houses.

A fascinating destination for a day trip, definitely worth including among the more accessible ones.

The Center of Comacchio

The historic center is unique and charming, preserving its original appearance, making it a pleasure to walk along its streets and bridges, enjoying the almost complete absence of tourists.

A descendant of ancient Spina, Comacchio has ancient origins, and among its monuments, all located very close to one another, you will undoubtedly admire the unmistakable Trepponti Bridge with its imposing staircases, the 17th-century Cathedral of San Cassiano, the elegant Palazzo Bellini, and the distinctive Manifattura dei Marinati, an old factory used for cooking and marinating eel, the undisputed queen of the local culinary tradition.

Ancient Delta Museum

A visit to the Ancient Delta Museum is a must, as it illustrates the evolution of the territory and human settlements. Not to be missed is the significant, almost entirely intact cargo of an Augustan-era commercial vessel, discovered in 1981 just a few kilometers from Comacchio.

The ship, which sank around the late 1st century BC, was engaged in transporting large commercial shipments. Observing the ship’s navigation tools, everyday objects, and actual commercial cargo—an immense treasure of ingots, amphorae, ceramics, and balsam jars—feels like stepping back in time.

The Eel of Comacchio

Eel is the undisputed star of Comacchio’s culinary tradition. The most iconic preparation is the marinated eel from the Comacchio Valley, but this local delicacy features in at least 48 other recipes, ranging from risotto and fish stew to sweet-and-sour chops and delicious grilled eel.

I finally gathered the courage to try a small piece of grilled eel as part of a more generous seafood platter. The taste didn’t particularly impress me, as eel is quite fatty, but it was definitely the perfect occasion to give it a try.

There are also many small souvenir shops where you can buy a gastronomic memory of the city: oil-packed anchovies, marinated anchovies, Ferrara bread, and salama da sugo are just a few of the specialties worth savoring.

My journey through the Comacchio Valley and its fascinating center ends here. A truly delightful destination for a day outdoors in a charming location.

I highly recommend visiting as soon as you can—and don’t miss the chance to taste one of the region’s best eel recipes at one of the local restaurants and trattorias that serve excellent cuisine.

For detailed information about the Comacchio Valley, nature itineraries featuring flora and fauna, visit the Ferrara Terra e Acqua website. For more information about the city of Comacchio, check the official Comacchio Tourist Information Office website.

For other stunning itineraries in Emilia-Romagna, check out the index of my articles.