A day in Bobbio, the village across the Devil’s Bridge

by 9, Feb, 2022Emilia-Romagna

Bobbio, the Village Beyond the Devil’s Bridge. Awarded the prestigious Orange Flag by the Italian Touring Club in 2005, recognized as one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages since 2006, and crowned Borgo dei Borghi in 2019, Bobbio undoubtedly stands out with an impressive track record.

The beauty of Bobbio is undeniable—you notice it as soon as you glimpse it from across the river after navigating a winding and bumpy road. A picturesque village bathed by the Trebbia River, accessible via a legendary bridge. It already sounds like the perfect fairytale setting, but beyond its appearance, Bobbio has so much more to tell.

 

What sets Bobbio apart is the aura of mystery that surrounds it—a blend of legend and history in a charming village of 3,500 souls, where cobbled streets invite you to lose yourself in their charm.

You’ll be enchanted, as I was, by the iconic Ponte Gobbo (Hunchback Bridge), spanning the Trebbia River. This bridge, steeped in sacred and mythical lore, leads straight to the heart of the village.

Ponte Gobbo or Devil’s Bridge

Bobbio’s unmistakable landmark is the arched stone bridge leading into the village, known as Ponte Gobbo or the Devil’s Bridge, named after the many legends surrounding its construction.

Likely of Roman origin, the bridge stretches about 300 meters with multiple irregular arches over the Trebbia River, connecting Bobbio to the valley that ascends through the Apennine ridge towards Coli.

During the Middle Ages, building a bridge was seen as a revolutionary act—connecting two places that nature had kept apart was considered against the will of God, in other words, diabolical.

This is why so many folk tales emerged about this bridge, most of them starring the Devil—one of the most common villains in medieval legends.

The Legend of the Devil’s Bridge

The most famous legend tells of Saint Columbanus, who wished to connect the two banks of the Trebbia River with a bridge.

The Devil himself appeared to him, promising to build the bridge overnight in exchange for the first mortal soul to cross it. The saint cunningly agreed.

During the night, the Devil summoned several demons to help construct the bridge. However, since the demons were all of different heights, they built uneven arches, giving the bridge its distinct irregular appearance.

At dawn, the Devil waited at the end of the bridge, ready to claim his prize—the soul of the first unfortunate being to cross. But Saint Columbanus outwitted him: instead of a human, he sent a dog across the bridge.

Realizing he had been tricked, the furious Devil kicked the bridge before retreating to the underworld, which is why the bridge remains crooked to this day!

Pro tip: For the best photograph of the Devil’s Bridge with Bobbio in the background, park at the free Co’ del Ponte parking lot.

Lety

Monastery of San Colombano

During the Middle Ages, Bobbio became a major monastic center thanks to Saint Columbanus, who founded the Monastery of San Colombano in 614. Over time, it developed one of Christianity’s most prestigious libraries, which still houses priceless ancient Latin manuscripts today.

The Monastery, fully open to visitors, includes the Basilica, the Abbey’s portico, an art museum, a historical museum, and the famous scriptorium, where monks once copied manuscripts by hand.

Inside the Crypt of the Basilica, you’ll find the sarcophagus of Saint Columbanus and a stunning mosaic floor—a must-see!

The Cathedral of Bobbio

The Cathedral is a fine example of Emilian architecture from the 15th century. Inside, you can admire stunning frescoed vaults, which were only recently rediscovered after centuries beneath a layer of lime. Thanks to a meticulous restoration project, their original beauty and vibrant colors have finally been revealed!

Malaspina Castle

Climbing a steep hill, you’ll reach the Malaspina Castle, a formidable and austere fortress built in the 14th century.

Its imposing tower dominates the landscape, offering breathtaking panoramic views of Bobbio, the Apennines, and the Trebbia Valley from the top.

Ancient San Giuseppe Mill

On the road leading to the castle, hidden among narrow and well-kept alleyways, you’ll find the San Giuseppe Mill, a relic of Bobbio’s past. This charming old mill serves as a reminder of a time when the village was full of streams and water channels, a heritage that locals hope to preserve.

Where to Eat in Bobbio

While wandering Bobbio’s quaint streets, be sure to stop at one of the local osterias to indulge in some authentic Piacenza cuisine. I personally tried La Barricata Bistrot, a cozy spot near the Monastery of San Colombano, where Moreno recommended traditional Bobbio dishes:

  • “Pinoli” pasta with mushroom sauce (gnocchi-shaped like pine nuts),
  • Handmade linguine with slow-cooked meat sauce,
  • Breaded beef cutlet with potatoes.

The total? Only €34 for two people!

Other local specialties include:

  • Maccheroni alla bobbiese (twisted pasta made with a knitting needle, served with meat ragù),
  • Bolo di riso bobbiese (a savory rice pie with vegetables, eggs, and cheese),

 

Nearby Attractions

Piacenza area is the perfect weekend getaway, full of delicious food, culture, and history. For more information, visit the  IAT website. A short drive away in the hills of Piacenza, you’ll find other charming medieval villages, such as:

  • Grazzano Visconti
  • Castell’Arquato
  • Vigoleno, a tiny gem with a stunning castle overlooking the hills.

 

This charming village in Emilia-Romagna is a true gem, nestled among the gentle hills of Piacenza and bathed by the clear waters of the Trebbia River. Crossing its most famous bridge, visitors are immediately immersed in a timeless atmosphere where history, legend, and tradition blend harmoniously.

Strolling through its narrow cobbled streets, one can discover picturesque corners, ancient buildings, and panoramic views that seem straight out of a painting. This place boasts an extraordinary cultural heritage, the result of centuries of monastic history and a medieval past that still echoes within the castle walls and the halls of the monastery. Renowned for its genuine cuisine rich in authentic flavors, it offers visitors the chance to savor traditional specialties in welcoming osterias and bistros.

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