Rocchetta Mattei: the most bizarre castle in Italy

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by letygoeson19, Jan, 2023Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

The most bizarre castle in Italy is undoubtedly Rocchetta Mattei Castle, an incredible architectural gem located near Bologna, in Emilia-Romagna.

Perched on the peak of a 400-meter-high hill, halfway between Bologna and Pistoia, stands Rocchetta Mattei Castle, the strangest castle in Italy. As eccentric as its creator, Count Cesare Mattei, its architecture is such a peculiar mix of styles that it makes you question reality: are we inside a dream, or are we actually visiting a castle?

We are in Savignano, in the Grizzana Morandi district of Bologna, where a remarkable construction dominates the landscape: Rocchetta Mattei Castle. A place that seems straight out of a movie set, blending various architectural styles both inside and out: medieval and Moorish, European and Oriental influences, all combined into a towering structure culminating in onion domes, minarets, towers, and turrets.

The Appearance of Rocchetta Mattei Castle

Rocchetta Mattei Castle stands on the ruins of a 12th-century castle built by Matilde di Canossa (one of the most extraordinary women of the Middle Ages that we have talked about here). In 1850, Count Mattei chose this site as his residence, transforming it into a medieval fortress enriched with Gothic and Moorish elements. The structure reflects his eccentric personality, featuring unique architectural details.

The entrance is marked by a gate with a pointed arch, followed by steep stone steps and a second pointed arch with a carved lion’s head. The door is shaped like a mushroom, decorated with colorful discs and stars.

A tunnel leads to a courtyard, dominated by a minaret and a fountain originally from the Basilica of St. John Lateran in Rome. The combination of these elements creates a surreal atmosphere, leaving visitors feeling uncertain—are they in the real world, or in a child’s fantastical dream?

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The Guided Tour Inside Rocchetta Mattei Castle

The first stop on the guided tour—the only way to visit Rocchetta Mattei Castle since its official reopening in 2015 after 10 years of restoration (still ongoing)—is Count Mattei’s chapel, located at the top of a narrow staircase. The space clearly resembles a miniature version of the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, with arches similar to the famous works of M.C. Escher, creating an optical illusion of infinite depth.

The next stop is a scaled-down reproduction of the Court of the Lions at the Alhambra, featuring a lion fountain at its center, colorful geometric tiles along the walls, and Arabic inscriptions on the outer portico.

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From there, visitors move through various interior rooms, many of which were decorated in the Art Nouveau style by Mattei’s adopted son after his death. Most of Mattei’s private rooms remain inaccessible, but they are said to contain some of the most extravagant decorations in the entire castle.

In the “Red Room” on the second floor, so named for the red fabric that once covered its walls, half of the vaulted ceiling resembles Fingal’s Cave, adorned with hundreds of jagged cubic stalactites of varying heights, painted brown to simulate wood.

Count Cesare Mattei

The guided tour of Rocchetta Mattei Castle weaves together the architecture and the life story of its creator, Count Cesare Mattei, who was ennobled in 1847 for his dedication to defending the Papal States. A polymath, he was a philanthropist, scientist, artist, and politician, as well as the inventor of Electrohomeopathy.

After his mother’s death from cancer, Mattei sought alternative cures based on the vital energy of plants. Electrohomeopathy aimed to restore the body’s electrical balance through herbal remedies, which Mattei believed could cure even cancer.

Despite being a controversial practice, Electrohomeopathy gained widespread popularity across Europe. The castle itself became a sanatorium, where Mattei treated his patients, including friends and prominent figures, making it impossible to separate his medical career from his residence.

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For more information on Count Cesare Mattei, visit: cesaremattei.com

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The Recent History of Rocchetta Mattei Castle

Count Cesare Mattei passed away in 1896, choosing to be buried inside his castle, which he left to his heirs. During World War II, the castle was occupied by the Germans, looted, and severely damaged. Mattei’s last heir attempted to donate it to the city of Bologna, but the offer was rejected.

Throughout the 20th century, the castle changed ownership multiple times, with failed plans to turn it into a hotel and tourist attraction. In the 1980s and 1990s, it was abandoned, until the early 2000s, when it was rescued by the local community.

In 2006, the castle was acquired by the Cassa di Risparmio di Bologna Foundation and restored. After nearly 10 years of renovations, respecting Mattei’s original vision, Rocchetta Mattei Castle officially reopened its gates to visitors in 2015, also hosting special seasonal events with magical and mysterious themes.

Visiting Rocchetta Mattei Castle

Rocchetta Mattei Castle is open only on weekends, and guided tours are available by online reservation. Visit the official website

Movies Filmed at Rocchetta Mattei Castle

The unique architecture of Rocchetta Mattei Castle has inspired filmmakers and writers, who have set extraordinary stories within its walls. Films shot here include “Balsamus, l’uomo di satana” (1968), “Tutti defunti tranne i morti” (1977) by Pupi Avati, “Enrico IV” (1984) by Marco Bellocchio, and more recently, “Il Conte Magico” (2019). The castle was also the setting for a magical-themed reality show produced by RAI.