What to see in Pennabilli: the ‘places of the soul’ in Romagna
Pennabilli reveals itself as a place that oozes art, poetry, and spirituality at every corner. Among the lands most beloved by Tonino Guerra, the natural wonders and the art that permeates the village, Pennabilli Romagna is an invitation to travel to the heart of the region, letting oneself be enveloped by the magic of a place that continues to inspire and fascinate.
Pennabilli, a village in Emilia-Romagna, nestled between the hills of the Montefeltro area of Rimini, turned out to be an unexpected surprise, a cradle of timeless authenticity and poetry. This charming village, with medieval roots and a Renaissance touch, offers a unique experience that extends far beyond its geographical boundaries.
I had already heard of Pennabilli and how beautiful it was, but I never expected to discover all these little gems to explore and see within it!
Pennabilli was the third stop on a weekend of slow discovery of the Montefeltro area, with walks and typical flavors of this particular part of the region, so different from the coast! Together with Sant’Agata Feltria and the village of Petrella Guidi, this town helped create a wonderful blend of emotions related to our beloved Emilia-Romagna that, despite having explored it extensively over the years, continues to offer new and beautiful memories to cherish!
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Legendary Pennabilli
According to a legend, it is said that the Malatesta family originated from a descendant of the Carpegna family known as “Malatesta,” perhaps due to his stubbornness and rebellion. This individual began the construction of the Castle of Penna, thus starting the family lineage, which later moved to Verucchio and Rimini, subjugating the entire region of Romagna.
The names of the two locations and the rival families of the area, the Penna and the Billi, seem to derive from the morphology of the two rocky peaks that characterize the geography of this village: “Penna” originates from the Latin “Pinna,” meaning peak, while “Billi” comes from “Bilia,” indicating the summit among the trees.
Thus, two castles were built on these elevated points, respectively inhabited by two families, the Penna on the Roccione and the Billi on the Rupe. The two families, due to their proximity, were rivals until 1350. The “fountain of peace” in the center of the main square is more than just an architectural feature; it is the symbol of the historical truce between the Penna and Billi families. It is here that a stone of peace was laid, marking the beginning of the unification of the castles and the founding of the town of Pennabilli.
In 1572, by the will of Pope Gregory XIII, the episcopal seat was transferred from San Leo to Pennabilli, further enhancing the place’s importance and political power.
What to See in Pennabilli Romagna
Tonino Guerra’s Places of the Soul
The village is imbued with the artistic legacy of Tonino Guerra, the famous poet and screenwriter who passed away in 2012.
Tonino Guerra was a renowned Italian poet, screenwriter, and writer, born in Santarcangelo di Romagna, and became known mainly for his collaborations with world-famous directors such as Federico Fellini, Michelangelo Antonioni, Andrei Tarkovsky, and Theo Angelopoulos. In addition to his contributions to cinema, Tonino Guerra was also a prolific poet, painter, and sculptor, writing numerous collections, poetic prose, and essays that reveal his deep connection to his homeland, Romagna, and his sensitivity toward nature, art, and spirituality.
Guerra spent the last years of his life in Pennabilli, where he conceived and created the Diffused Museum “I Luoghi dell’Anima,” which stretches across the historic heart of Pennabilli, dedicated to his artistic and cultural legacy that continues to live through the works he left and the inspiration he provided to successive generations of artists and writers.
The original concept of the museum includes seven outdoor locations, each with unique characteristics, but all aimed at stimulating the imagination and heart of the visitor. Now, let’s dive into this evocative world by exploring each of the Places of the Soul one by one.
The Garden of Forgotten Fruits
Described as a “museum of flavors,” this place houses rare varieties of fruit trees belonging to the spontaneous flora of the Apennine countryside. Among biricoccolo, nespolo, sorbo, and others, the garden also features suggestive art installations, such as “The Chapel of Tarkovsky” and “The Arch of Fairytales.”
The Refuge of Abandoned Madonnas
A collection of sacred images, once adorning small shrines along country roads, now gathers in this peaceful corner of Pennabilli. Tonino Guerra imagined that the Madonnas, to escape the harshness of time and human indifference, had found their home here to rest.
The Meridian Road
In the historic center, seven sundials by various artists adorn the facades of buildings, offering an artistic perspective and an original way of measuring time. Each sundial features reproductions of famous paintings, paying tribute to the various ways of measuring time throughout the centuries.
The Angel with the Mustache
Located in the Chiesetta dei Caduti, this “museum of the world” features a single painting by Luigi Poiaghi, inspired by a poem by Tonino Guerra about a helpless angel. The installation tells the story of an angel who, instead of flying to Paradise, descended into the Marecchia river to take care of stuffed birds.
The Sanctuary of Thoughts
In the ruined Malatestiano area, an oriental-style garden with ancient walls houses seven enigmatic stone sculptures, described by Tonino Guerra as “seven mysterious stones, seven opaque mirrors for the mind, seven mute confessors.”
The Petrified Garden
In Bascio, at the foot of a thousand-year-old tower, seven ceramic rugs, designed by Giovanni Urbinati according to a poetic idea by Tonino Guerra, bear the names of illustrious people who passed through the valley.
The Madonna of the Snow Rectangle
In the Ca’ Romano area, the church of the Madonna del Rettangolo di Neve, surrounded by the forest, tells the story of how snow indicated the perfect spot to build this small church in 1754.
The Words on the Walls
The itinerary ends with “The Words on the Walls,” ceramic plaques designed by Tonino Guerra to honor those who contributed to the town’s history.
Tonino Guerra’s World
Tonino Guerra’s World is a museum space located in Via dei Pensieri Sospesi (formerly Via dei Fossi) that houses a rich collection of paintings, ceramics, and sculptures conceived and created by Tonino Guerra himself. It is also a place for deepening the Master’s work and the context in which it was created, thanks to the presence of an archive, a video library, and a library set up inside.
The building also serves as the headquarters for the cultural association named after Tonino Guerra, founded in 2005 through the initiative of several provinces, the municipalities of Pennabilli and Santarcangelo di Romagna, and the Alta Valmarecchia Mountain Community.
This association aims to collect and enhance the artistic work of the Master both in Italy and internationally, promoting his poetic, cinematic, and artistic culture while also highlighting the peculiarities of the region. It interacts with institutions, organizations, and associations in the territory, contributing to a European and international cultural perspective.
In 2015, “Tonino Guerra’s World” in Pennabilli Romagna was included among the treasures of European film culture by the European Film Academy (E.F.A.).
The Connection Between Pennabilli Romagna and Tibet
Pennabilli never ceases to surprise, revealing even a connection with Tibet, an unexpected bond that manifests as a kind of enchantment. This place, wrapped in silence and embraced by open spaces inviting reflection and meditation, offers an atmosphere full of spirituality. A magic that attracted none other than the Dalai Lama, who visited Pennabilli twice, giving rise to an intriguing story.
In the distant 1700s, a friar named Frà Orazio from Pennabilli, driven by his missionary work, embarked on an extraordinary journey to Tibet. This meeting marked not only his mission but also a first contact between Tibet and the Western world. The Dalai Lama, recognizing the purity of the friar’s mind, called him the lama of the “white mind,” cementing this bond in 1994 with a sister-city agreement between Tibet and Pennabilli.
Traces of this story are revealed in three key locations in the town. The first is Frà Orazio’s Birthplace: here, next to the door, a plaque commemorates the friar and his extraordinary journey.
The Chorten, a Tibetan prayer altar, is surprisingly placed within this context. A symbolic act of peace is to offer a stone to the Chorten, with the infinity symbol drawn on the wall.
Climbing up to the Roccione, where the castle of the Penna family once stood and offering a breathtaking panoramic view of the village and the surrounding valley, one comes across the Campana di Lhasa.
This bell symbolizes the brotherhood between Tibet and Italy. It was inaugurated in 2005 during the Dalai Lama’s second visit and stands as a tangible testimony to the Christian mission. Next to it are the “prayer wheels” engraved with the Buddhist mantra.
These places tied to the Tibetan spirituality of Pennabilli reminded me immediately of the village of Votigno di Canossa in the province of Reggio Emilia, also sister-city to Tibet, and a place with almost palpable spirituality!
The Rock of Pennabilli
On the opposite side of the rocky hill, the climb to the Rupe offers a unique experience: through the small church of the Monastery of the Augustinian Nuns and the ruins of the ancient Billi Castle, you can enjoy a panoramic view that embraces the entire village of Pennabilli and the surrounding Montefeltro.
Pennabilli, è bello se puoi arrivare in un posto dove trovi te stesso
Where to Eat in Pennabilli
Our visit to Pennabilli was made perfect by the delightful gastronomic stops: Osteria Enoteca Al Bel Fico,, located in the main square, offers authentic Romagna delicacies, with dishes like passatelli, pappardelle with mushrooms, and mora romagnola salami. We dined here on Saturday night, and it was a great choice—a confirmation of the excellent reviews found on Trip Advisor! A perfect blend of tradition and flavor.
The next day, for lunch, we went to “La Dolce Vita,” a bar/restaurant very close to the square, on a side street. Here, we had the best plate of gnocchi with ragù we could have wished for, and it was truly a surprise! The infinite warmth of the locals welcomed us with affection, and we were so happy to have spent our weekend here!
Pennabilli Romagna is truly an interesting stop in the region.
A perfect mix of culture, spirituality, art, and history! A place where nature and creativity come together to create an unforgettable atmosphere.
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I absolutely recommend spending a slow weekend here in Sant’Agata Feltria, which turns out to be a hidden gem of the Romagna hinterland full of surprises.
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