Discover the Village of Volturi: a journey into the ancient Etruscan capital amidst the untouched beauty of the Val di Cecina. Wander through the enchanting alleys that tell its centuries-old stories: from the alabaster workshops to the picturesque squares, and let yourself be captivated by the legends, between witches and vampires, for an unforgettable weekend.
Here’s what to see in Volterra, what to visit, which excursions to book, and where to enjoy a relaxing break along the way.

Welcome to the fascinating Volterra! This Tuscan gem, nestled in the picturesque Val di Cecina, awaits you with its welcoming streets and centuries-old secrets. Despite its modest population of about ten thousand inhabitants, its size is significantly larger than other Tuscan villages.

The road to get here is a winding path with curves and elevations that tested my car sickness, but I was so glad I persevered because Volterra is a breathtaking village that truly deserves a visit! I spent a sunny but windy Saturday here, and by dusk, we went to another equally captivating village nearby: San Gimignano.

The imposing walls of Volterra protect a millennia-old history, where ancient Etruscan remnants intertwine with Roman and medieval architecture, creating an enchanting scene typical of Tuscany. Located in the province of Pisa, Volterra is a perfectly preserved treasure, embraced by 13th-century walls. Although I would recommend a slightly longer visit, don’t worry if you only have one day: you’ll still be able to capture the essence of its historic center on foot.

Volterra has long been renowned for its mastery in the art of alabaster, as evidenced by the many artisan shops in the town center, where this ancient tradition is passed down through generations.

The Village of Volturi

But that’s not all! In addition to being a Tuscan gem, this town has also captured the imagination of many as the residence of the mysterious Volturi from Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” saga. (Buy the book series here)

My first visit to Volterra was back in 2011, during the peak of Twilight’s popularity. Fascinated by the coven of the cruel Volturi, I decided to spend a few days here in the summer. However, once I arrived, I realized that the main square didn’t resemble the film set at all. I discovered later that the movie had been filmed in Montepulciano (in Val D’Orcia) for logistical reasons… But this discovery didn’t discourage me.
Volterra was still mentioned in the book, and there had to be some legendary foundation that inspired the author. Intrigued, I began to investigate and found more than one possible source of inspiration.
But we’ll talk more about that in a moment.

Volterra remains an irresistible attraction for fans of the literary and cinematic series. Its fascinating history and its connection to pop culture make it a magical place to explore.
In this article, you’ll find all the information you need to explore this enchanting village, full of stories and legends that intertwine like blades of grass in a meadow.

picture from Twilightsaga.fandom.com 

Where to park in Volterra

The ancient heart of Volterra is surrounded by its majestic historical walls, creating a completely pedestrian center. Outside these ancient walls, you’ll find various paid parking areas (with hourly rates of 2.00 euros or daily rates of 12.00 euros),  among them, I recommend the underground “La Dogana” parking for its strategic location.
Located opposite one of the most breathtaking views of Volterra, it offers a spectacular view of the village and the lush valley, at the foot of the Etruscan Acropolis.
From here, in just a few minutes, you’ll be immersed in the lively heart of the town, in Piazza dei Priori.

Legends, witches, and vampires in Volterra

Although the Volturi from the “Twilight” saga are purely the imagination of Stephenie Meyer, Volterra is steeped in dark and mysterious legends dating back to ancient times. It is said that the legendary figure of Aradia, daughter of the goddess Diana and considered the first witch in history, once dwelled here, bringing with her the knowledge of magic to help the weak and the oppressed.
Centuries later, on August 13, 1313, another Aradia was born in Volterra. Her life was marked by tragedy and condemnation, but on the day of her execution, her cell was mysteriously found empty, leaving behind only unanswered questions.

Moreover, every Saturday night, just before midnight, it’s said that the witches of Volterra gather in a sinister place: the Mandringa stone. This imposing rock has a crack from which spring water flows, a place of daily activity for women washing clothes and children playing. But when night falls and the hoot of owls joins the meow of cats, no one dares approach the spring. It is here that, according to legend, the witches dance in an ancient and mysterious ritual, fueling the fears and enigmas surrounding the city of Volterra.

If you’re a movie buff, I highly recommend taking the tour that will lead you to discover the iconic filming locations in the Valdichiana Senese and Val d’Orcia. During this tour, you’ll have the chance to visit the famous locations where films like “Gladiator” and “The Twilight Saga: New Moon” were shot.
The tour begins in Montepulciano and ends with a tasting of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG. You can book this unique experience.

What to see in Volterra

Spending an entire day in Volterra you can visit several interesting spots: 

Piazza dei Priori in Volterra

Piazza dei Priori is a true treasure trove of history and art, rich in majestic buildings that testify to the glorious past of this charming Tuscan town.
Starting from Piazza dei Priori to discover Volterra means immersing yourself completely in the history and art of this village, letting yourself be enchanted by the grandeur of its buildings and the richness of its artistic treasures.

In the center of the square stands the mighty Palazzo dei Priori, which gives its name to the entire area and houses the Town Hall of Volterra. Built in 1239, it features an imposing façade with elegant bifore windows, adorned with coats of arms of Florentine magistrates. In the past, it housed the elders who administered justice and later the priors of the people, preserving frescoes and priceless works of art inside.

Next to the Palazzo dei Priori stands the charming Palazzo Pretorio, which occupies an entire side of the square. This architectural complex, dating back to the 19th century, was originally the seat of the Podestà and Captains of the People and still preserves its grandeur and historical charm today.

On the southern side of the square is the imposing Palazzo Vescovile, a symbol of the power of the bishop and the canons. Once home to the diocesan museum of Sacred Art, it now houses the Diocesan Historical Archive, where one of the first documents in the Italian language, the Guaita of Travale, is kept.

Palazzo Viti Incontri

Along Via dei Sarti, we come across the majestic Palazzo Incontri Viti, whose origins date back to the construction request made by Attilio Incontri, a minister of the Grand Duke of Tuscany at the end of the 16th century.

The building stands out for its long Mannerist façade, enriched with stone window frames and triangular pediments on the first floor. Since 1819, the space hosted the Persio Fiacco Theater, with four tiers of boxes, historic ceilings, and a remarkable curtain, later becoming property of the Academy of Riuniti.

The Palazzo Incontri Viti is now open to the public through a house museum dedicated to alabaster, established by Benedetto Giuseppe Viti, who, after amassing wealth from his international trade, purchased the palace in 1850 to make it his residence. The museum houses a vast collection of alabaster works and various objects from his travels to America, India, and Nepal.

Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta

The majestic Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, also known as the Duomo of Volterra, is an architectural icon of rare beauty. Its imposing Romanesque facade dates back to the 13th Century when the church was completely rebuilt after a collapse caused by an earthquake in 1100. In the following centuries, the building was further expanded and enriched. Inside it, the Latin cross-shaped plan is characterized by three grand aisles supported by 22 granite columns.

Fiorentina Gate

One of the most picturesque exits from the historic center is the Porta Fiorentina, or Fiorentina Gate, named for its direction toward Florence. In the past, it was the only northern access to Volterra.
Located on the medieval walls, Porta Fiorentina originally had a defensive tower and an ante-gate. However, in 1530, during a siege, the tower was damaged, and the gate suffered significant destruction due to the explosion of ammunition stored there. It was then restored in 1545 and reinforced with the construction of a Medici bastion, giving it a majestic presence. To this day, you can admire the Medici family coat of arms on the exterior.

To the right of Porta Fiorentina stands the robust 16th-century bastion, commissioned by Cosimo I to provide solid defense and a strategic point for artillery to protect this part of the city.

Roman Theatre of Volterra

The Roman Theatre of Volterra, located just outside the city walls, is an archaeological site of significant importance, though it is not particularly famous on a national level. Built between the 1st century BC and the 1st century AD, this theatre bears witness to Volterra’s connection with Rome, as indicated by statues of Augustus, Livia, and Tiberius, now housed in the Guarnacci Museum. Originally capable of hosting 1,700 spectators, the theatre still features a large cavea with two tiers of seating built on the natural slope of the terrain, as well as a semicircular orchestra, a proscenium, and a stage measuring 36 meters. Subsequent additions, such as lateral wings with marble columns and Corinthian capitals, date back to the Claudian era.

Interestingly, the Roman theatre of Volterra was used for centuries as a landfill, a fact that ironically helped preserve it. The structures buried beneath the refuse remained untouched during the city’s plundering, and it was only in the 1950s that excavations uncovered this valuable archaeological site, with the participation of patients from the Volterra Psychiatric Hospital.

Enrico Fiumi Archaeological Park and the Etruscan Acropolis of Volterra

The Enrico Fiumi Archaeological Park is a must-see for anyone visiting Volterra. This green space, dedicated to Volterra economist Enrico Fiumi, offers a pleasant oasis of tranquility in the heart of the city. It is here that you can access the Etruscan Acropolis, where you can admire the remains of two Etruscan temples dating back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC, once adorned with terracotta friezes, now preserved in the Guarnacci Museum. Despite less-than-ideal visiting conditions due to tall grass, the experience remains evocative and steeped in history.

On the other side of the park stands the imposing Medici Fortress of Volterra, a testament to Renaissance military architecture. Composed of the old fortress, also known as Cassero or “La Femmina,” and the new fortress, called the Mastio, the fortress dominates the upper part of the Volterra hill. Unfortunately, the interior cannot be visited as it currently houses the local prison, but its grandeur and fascinating history still make it one of the most captivating landmarks in the city.

“Ombra della Sera” (Shadow of the Evening)” from Wikipedia.it

Museum of Torture of Volterra

The Museum of Torture in Volterra offers visitors a compelling and sometimes unsettling journey into humanity’s dark past. Located in a medieval building in the heart of the historic center, this museum displays a unique collection of instruments and machinery used to inflict punishment and torture individuals throughout the centuries.
Through interactive and detailed exhibits, visitors can explore the practices of torture and justice from the time, understanding the historical and social motivations behind them. From narrow prisons to decapitation cages, from cruel torture devices to the legal procedures of the time, the museum provides a revealing perspective on a dark chapter in human history.

Though it can be disturbing, the Museum of Torture in Volterra is also an important reminder of the past and a warning against injustice and cruelty. It is a place that invites reflection on the nature of humanity and the need to defend the values of humanity and dignity in every era.

This restaurant made our visit unforgettable: warm, precise service enriched every moment. In a world where attention to detail makes all the difference, La Vecchia Lira shines for its authenticity and the genuine affection shown to its guests. We felt very much pampered.

Thus, I highly recommend the restaurant La Vecchia Lira to anyone seeking an authentic and unforgettable culinary experience in Volterra. The combination of delicious food and a welcoming atmosphere makes it a must-visit for lovers of good food and quality hospitality.

Volterra has proven to be an enchanting destination that combines millennial history, Renaissance art and breathtaking landscapes. With its medieval streets, archaeological treasures, lively food and wine culture and the warm welcome of its inhabitants, this Tuscan city enchants and surprises every visitor.

A trip to Volterra is an unforgettable experience that leaves a lasting impression in the heart of anyone who wants to explore it.
Buy the Cecina Valley Guide here to discover its beauty, history, and enchanting villages.

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